Fermentation in Beer Land!

In my head I compare international brewing to being a modern-day explorer. It is performing demanding physical labor in harsh environments paid with the rewards of outrageous stories, PTSD and a complete reexamination of one’s definition of the word culture. For some reason, when I tell people about my experiences brewing over seas, I feel obligated to explain the residual trauma. Brewing in 5 countries does not come with out conflict, both internal and external. I think that’s important to mention. People have used my stories as selling points for the products I’ve made being back stateside and sometimes I resent this. For every fun, adventurous story I have to tell, there is a dark story I’m not telling.

In order to successfully brew beer in Vietnam, one must have a detailed understanding that while the brewing process remains the same, the road to get to the end product is very different. Flexibility is a must. Temperature, cleanliness, education level and taste are very, very different in South East Asia. Vietnam has no indigenous ingredients required to make beer and the tap water is unpotable. All ingredients must be imported through one of the most difficult and corrupt customs authorities in the world. Once the ingredients have arrived, considerations for the brewing process itself must be made.

I found my Viet labor to be really great. My employees or “boys” as they were called, worked 29 days per month for a salary of $300. What they lacked in literacy, they absolutely made up for in work ethic. (Speaking of literacy, I find it difficult to judge them on their ability to read, when I was illiterate in Asia as well.) On occasion this terrific work ethic would lead to problems. Often they would need to be micromanaged as they would just solve issues as they saw them, blind to the biochemical understanding of why they were doing what they were doing. Overall, they were friendly, kind, hardworking and teachable.

The styles of beers brewed to fit the tastes of the consumers in Vietnam were a bit different as well. I found that low ABV and IBU beers sold much better in the hot, damp, dirty climate. Pilsners, Blonde Ales, Cream Ales and similar styles really hit home with the Vietnamese population while IPAs and darker, heavier styles were appreciated more by the expat population. The beers I brewed in Vietnam used exotic ingredients such as Buddah Fingers and Dragon Fruit and they were sessionable and often drank a touch warm or over ice as the locals prefer. There weren’t many laws or rules imposed by the government and this allowed for creativity that existed no where else I’ve brewed in the world.

The Indian brewers that I met were friendly, genuine, curious and highly educated. With universities dedicated to fermentation sciences established well before this recent craft beer boom we have seen in the USA, India has a wealth of biochemical brewing understanding. India also lacked indigenous ingredients and potable water, yet access to malt, hops and yeast seemed better. I could choose malt, hop and yeast varieties in ways I could not in Vietnam.

The Indian palate seemed more diverse than that of Vietnam. Heavily influenced by the British Colonial History, English style pub ales (so much Maris Otter!) reigned supreme in Mumbai. Hazy IPAs, fruited dark beers and sour beers were also popular. The chaste system in India coupled with strict alcohol production and sales laws meant that the craft beer seemed a less accessible to the broader population. Craft beer was very much a casual yet upper class product.

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Hi Tara,

Here are some words. Let me know if you'd like me to elaborate on anything.

Cheers,

Allison

From: Tara Nurin -- Women-in-Beer Journalist <author@eyesontheworld.us>

Sent: Thursday, October 1, 2020 9:30 PM

To: Allison Higi <allisonhigi@hotmail.com>

Subject: for the book

Allison, hi. If you're interested, I'd love to hear about your experiences brewing in India and Vietnam as a woman. Would you want to email me some thoughts?

--

Tara Nurin, Author

Don't Worry, Darling, You Didn't Burn the Beer; release date: Spring 2021 by Chicago Review Press